Racing the Clock – Schengen Area

We screwed up and miscalculated our Schengen Area time limit, but caught our mistake just in the nick of time. 

You see, there is a rule in Europe, specifically in the countries making up the Schengen Area, which allows tourists to visit anywhere within the “area” for 90 days out of every 180 without a formal travel visa. Most travelers on vacation don’t run into any problems with this, but long-term travelers can if they are not careful. 

Source: Wikipedia

We had planned our time in Spain and Portugal with this in mind. We arrived in Madrid on September 2 and would be leaving Lisbon via cruise ship on November 27. This meant we would be in the Schengen Area for 87 days, 3 days under the limit. Everything was planned to line up perfectly. 

About 60 days into our trip it hit us. The “clock” stops only when your passport is stamped into a country outside the Schengen Area.  Because we are cruising out of the area and there is no exit stamp when you leave a country, we will be over our limit by about 11 days. Our passports would not be stamped until our cruise arrived in Brazil. By going over, we could face hefty fines or be denied reentry back into the area the next time we visit Europe.  That’s not good!  

So, what can we do?

We talked through about a dozen possible solutions and the quickest, easiest and least expensive option was to skip the time we were going to spend after the Camino touring southern Spain and Portugal and fly to a country outside the Schengen Area instead, thus buying back the days we need for the cruise. 

It’s a bit of a convoluted mess, but we’re flexible and open to new experiences. We spent a few hours researching and booking accommodations at our chosen destination and then let out a big sigh of relief knowing we’d avoided what could have been a huge problem for us when we planned to return to Europe next summer. 

We knew this nomadic lifestyle would come with challenges. Hopefully we successfully passed our first test!

Any guesses on where we are heading? 

Day 60 – Nov 4,  2022 – Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela (10,30 km / 6.4 miles) 

It’s official…we have completed 779 kilometers (484 miles in total) to Santiago de Compostela!!!

We are both feeling mixed emotions. We’re so glad we made it and can finally let our feet recover from the trauma we’ve put them through, but at the same time we’re a little sad it’s over. It will take some time to process all the feelings. 

The good news is after 60 days we didn’t kill each other. The Camino was not a leisurely stroll and we each had moments where our heart wasn’t 100% in it, but we supported each other and understood when space was needed. 

We’re proud of ourselves and what we accomplished. We’re not signing up for another Camino just yet, but haven’t completely closed the door on the possibility of doing another route some day. We’ll see. Time will tell.

We will summarize everything and post later. For now, we have a new problem to solve which we will share soon. 

Days 58 & 59 Boente to Lavacolla (36,23 km / 22.52 miles) 

Day 58 – Nov 2,  2022 – Boente to Salceda (19,45 km / 12.09 miles)

Oh boy, did we ever screw up today. The less than 20 km route turned into 23.  The address for our hostal in our confirmation directed us incorrectly off the Camino and to different Hostal altogether, one THAT WAS CLOSED FOR THE SEASON. Once we figured it out and rerouted Google Maps, we had to walk an additional 2 km to the correct place – 100% of it on pavement. Our feet are absolutely hating us right now. I thought technology was supposed to help us? 

Day 59 – Nov 3,  2022 – Salceda to Labacolla (16,78 km / 10.43 miles)

We are so close now…we will post a video tomorrow!

Days 55 – 57 Mercadoiro to Boente (53,27 km / 33.10 miles)  

Day 55 – Oct 30,  2022 – Mercadoiro to Ventas de Narón (18,90 km / 11.75 miles)

We were excited to have our shadows back today. The weather was sunny with a nice cool breeze. The break in the storm for our longer day today is greatly appreciated.  

full circle view

Day 56 – Oct 31,  2022 – Ventas de Narón to Pontecampaña (15,84 km / 9.84 miles)

Happy Halloween! I am disappointed we weren’t able to shoot a video for you of us in costume.  For the past week, we searched for simple costumes to wear while hiking today. We were hopeful we would find something yesterday, when we rolled into Portomarin, but it was Sunday so everything was closed. 

Oh well, we tried. Instead, we dressed up as hikers on the Camino.

Day 57 – Nov 1,  2022 – Pontecampaña to Boente (18,53 km / 11.51 miles)

We enjoyed another cool, dry day today. As we get into our final push into Santiago, we’ve been forced to do some longer days. Some of this is due to how the towns are spread out, but more of it has to do with the calendar and the albergues closing down for the season. Today was a longer day than we wanted, especially since we haven’t taken a down day since we left Astorga 16 days ago. Our feet are constantly sore, but we see the finish line only 46 km away. Shut up feet, we got this!

Days 52-54 – Triacastela to Mercadoiro (41,23 km / 25.62 miles) 

Day 52 – Oct 27,  2022 – Triacastela to Samos (9,69 km / 6 miles)

We had a short walk today only 10km. When we arrived one hour before we could check in, we decided to have a bite and a drink at the bar across the street. This was one of the coolest places we’ve found so far. All the furniture is antique and the food was fabulous. But most importantly, the soundtrack was outstanding. The owner had built her own playlist on Creada (the Spainish version of Spotify). It flowed with offbeat folksy cover tunes. It was wonderful.  

Then we traveled back in time while visiting the Monastery of San Xulián de Samos which is an active Benedictine monastery in Samos, Galicia, Spain. It was founded in the sixth century.

The stone work and art was magnificent. The tour was given in Spanish so we didn’t understand much. We would get a few words here and there and probably words we wanted to hear… it seemed the monk leading the tour said “quesadilla” often. But maybe I am just hungry. Unfortunately photos weren’t allowed, but you can view the monastery from their website here

Day 53 – Oct 28,  2022 – Samos to Sarria (14,54 km / 9 miles)

Today was rainy, hilly, green and gorgeous!  We are now only 114 kilometers from Santiago as we enter Sarria.

We went for a drink and asked for tapas and couldn’t decide so the bartender asked “una de cada” or one of each. Rex said sí, por qué no!” Which means, sure why not.

We stayed in a dorm-style albergue for the last time intentionally. We wanted to feel the new pilgrim energy. But the albergue was too loud and sleep was hard to come by. It is all a part of the Camino experience. 

Day 54 – Oct 29,  2022 – Sarria to Mercadoiro (17 km / 10.56 miles)

We experimented today. We wanted to give you a day in the life of a pilgrim walking the camino. So we created a point of view (POV) video just for you. This way from the comfort of your warm, dry living room you can walk 17 kilometers with us from Sarria to Mercadoiro. 

It is best with the sound on and even better on a large screen with surround sound. You can listen to the rain, wind, birds, tractors, cows, footsteps, and my heavy breathing when walking uphill.  No uphill swearing though. Sorry. 

The video reflects 7 hours of walking, condensed to less than 14  minutes for your viewing pleasure. 

Enjoy and thanks for following!

We have less than 100 km to go!