Ecuador – The Amazon (Day 1)

We stayed in an eco-lodge for four nights within the Ecuadorian Amazon Rainforest. We flew from Quito to Coca and were met by our guide who escorted us to a boat for the two-and-a-half hour ride down the Napo River which eventually empties into the Amazon River. After the long boat ride, we transferred to paddle canoes for another 30-minute ride along a smaller tributary to the Garza Cocha lagoon where La Selva Ecolodge sits.  The lodge is completely remote and all provisions, including food, drinking water, and even the laundry must be canoed in and out to and from Coca. Conservation is key and they are very conscious to remind guests not to waste resources. Upon arrival, we were greeted with a fresh juice and snacks then sat for a briefing about the lodge and what we could expect over the next few days. 

The eco-lodge provided us with a local guide Chicuqui (pronounced Chi-coo-key) from the Kitchwa community who has lived here his entire life. We were also assigned an expert naturalist guide (Paúl) for all our outings. Both were amazing, incredibly knowledgeable, and had eagle eyes. We were grateful for them. Without them, we would not have seen as much as we did nor learned so much about the various symbiotic relationships between everything living in the rainforest. 

Fun fact: A rainforest is any forested area located between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn receiving more than 200 cm or 6 ft of rain per year. 

Our days were scheduled with morning and late afternoon/evening activities each day. We began each morning with a 5:30 am knock on our door. This was our “alarm” telling us it was time to get up and go to breakfast. The morning activities started at 6:30 each day just as the sun was rising and the jungle was coming back to life. 

We had free time during the mid-day hours where we could explore on our own or partake in other activities around the lodge such as kayaking, fishing, yoga, or getting a spa treatment.  It was also a chance to escape the hottest part of the day and cool down in our rooms under the strong ceiling fans. 

Evening activities began at 4:30 pm. This is when we would explore the lagoon by canoe or the forest on foot to watch the jungle transition into nighttime. 

We saw so much on day one. I can’t imagine what day two will bring. 

Ecuador – Quito – City Tour

Today, we took a full-day city tour and learned a lot about Quito (pronounced key-toe). Fun fact: Quito sits at the 2nd highest elevation of any capital city in the world (9,350 feet/2,850 meters above sea level) and our lungs noticed the thin air when we walked the hilly streets throughout the city. 

We visited the Basilica del Voto Nacional and climbed to the top of the condor tower for a fantastic panoramic view of the city.  I had to challenge my fears on this one. But I did it. The stairs to the top were see through which made it even more difficult for me. I reminded myself not to look down the whole way.

Ecuador is a leading producer of cacao, but it keeps most of it for its own consumption. We stopped at a chocolate tasting room and we’re guided through about a dozen different styles of chocolate all produced locally with Ecuadorian cacao beans. Some were delicious, while others weren’t to our (Rex’s) liking, but we still walked away with several bars of our favorites to share with family back home, if we can keep from eating them before we get there, of course!

The Virgin of El Panecillo statue sits atop of a hill in

We leave the Quito area this morning for the jungles of the Amazon rainforest. We have high expectations for the Amazon and anticipate so much biodiversity. I was like a kid on Christmas Eve last night. We expect to return in about 5 days to fly to another fantastic Ecuadorian destination. 

We appreciate you following us on this journey. 

Adiós por ahora!

the heart of the city. This is the tallest statue in Ecuador and slightly taller than Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro. Rain started pouring down and the staff had left for lunch just as we arrived for our visit, so we were not able to go inside the statue to climb to the top, but our guide provided us with good information about the statue’s history once we got out of the rain and back to the car.

We stopped for lunch and ordered a dish quite common in the Ecuadorian diet, watch the video for more. 

Finally we were off to the “Center of the World” museum where we learned all about the equator and the indigenous people who realized the significance of this special place on the earth way before GPS was around to pinpoint its exact location. We even got our passports stamped at the Latitude 0°0’0” marker. 

We leave the Quito area this morning for the jungles of the Amazon rainforest. We have high expectations for the Amazon and anticipate so much biodiversity. I was like a kid on Christmas Eve last night. We expect to return in about 5 days to fly to another fantastic Ecuadorian destination. 

We appreciate you following us on this journey. 

Adiós por ahora!

PIVOT!

Living a nomadic lifestyle requires flexibility and the willingness to change plans at the last minute. Many times, you find where you will rest your head only a day or two before your head hits the pillow. 

We were scheduled to relocate from Argentina to Peru to visit Machu Picchu and the Amazon. These magnificent places have been on our bucket list for years, and we were finally going to experience them. Then political instability reared its ugly head. 

We have been keeping our finger on the pulse of the issues in Peru for the past two weeks. Since it all started, our tour supplier already sent two groups on the same trip with no issues. We were hopeful tensions would die down and all would be fine. 

Unfortunately, only yesterday, it was announced many areas in Peru would start striking TODAY! We were due to fly into Peru to begin our journey at oh-dark-thirty TODAY. Oh crap! And just like that, the mad scramble began. We couldn’t risk our safety or be stuck somewhere without necessary provisions created by transportation issues and road closures. So, we needed a new plan and fast. 

After a quick brainstorming session with our incredible supplier, we had a plan, and Peru was out! To make it work, we would still need to connect through Lima, Peru, but it would only be a short layover, and then we would be out of Peru. 

Our new plan kept most of our wish list intact but forces us to postpone Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley. We’re extremely disappointed, but our safety is our number one priority in everything we do. This strike could end up being a peaceful one, but when driven by political discontent, there is a possibility things could escalate quickly, and we aren’t willing to take that chance. Machu Picchu has been there for thousands of years. It will still be there when we make it back to Peru someday. 

As firm believers that everything happens for a reason, we know this last-minute revision to our trip will be amazing. 

So, stick around and roam with us as we discover what Ecuador has to offer!

Argentina – Buenos Aires – Tango and Cooking Class

We combined the art of dance and cooking into one tonight. The evening started with a tango lesson. Our instructor (Analia Vega) was incredible. We have taken dance lessons before, but in all the other classes, the instructors simply taught us steps to memorize. Here she engaged feelings and body agreement which with practice will allow us to sense and anticipate each other’s movements. Those of you who dance understand. Steps are easy, but being able to trust and make up steps with a partnership is key. We won’t be dancing in a milonga any time soon, but we all have to start somewhere.  

We ended the evening with a traditional Argentinian cooking class.   We made a three course meal of beef empanadas, Argentine ribeye with chimichurri and roasted rosemary potatoes and finished with a boozy dulce de leche ice cream. It was the best meal we’ve had so far in Argentina and now we know how to make it again once we get home. Anyone willing being our Guinea pig to practice on?

After spending time cooking with our host, we are looking forward to the comfort of our kitchen again. The apartment we are staying in has very limited resources for cooking and we’ve had to “McGuyver” a few meals since we’ve been here. We’ve done pretty well, but we’re looking forward to sharp knives again. 

Recipe: Easy boozy ice cream

  • 1 part cold whipping cream
  • 1 part dulce de leche
  • 1/2 part Bacardi (Blanca or Silver) 
  • Grated dark chocolate to top

Instructions

  • Beat the cold cream to soft peaks
  • Add dulce de leche and rum and beat back to soft peaks
  • Pour into small glasses and freeze for at least 2 hours
  • Top with grated chocolate and serve

If you try the recipe, please let us know what you thought of it.

Our stay in Argentina is coming to an end. We will be flying out on Wednesday. Stay tuned for where we’re heading next in a future post.

Happy New Year!

Argentina – Iguazú Falls

Iguazú Falls are located on the border of Argentina and Brazil on the Iguazú River. Together, they make up the largest waterfall system in the world. The falls divide the river into the upper and lower Iguazú. Over 500 species of butterflies and animals including capuchin monkeys and jaguars live in the Iguazú National Park

Iguazú Falls was incredible.  This has been on our list of places to visit for quite a while. Due to time constraints, we made this a day trip which forced us to wake up at 4am to get to the airport for our 2 hour flight to Iguazú. After meeting our private guide, we spent the rest of the day traversing the maze of walkways and bridges to various viewpoints within the park.

The water is actually low at this time of year, yet the roar of the falls was palpable. You could feel the power of the water as it rushed over the cliffs and the cooling mist was refreshing on such a hot day.  Our guide told us to visit in May to see the falls at their fullest. Since we were on a tight timeline to get back to the airport for our return flight, we were only able to walk a few of the trails within the park. We hope to return someday, preferably in the month of May, and explore the rest of the trails we missed in this beautiful National Park. 

At the end of our tour we cooled off at the Gran Meliá Hotel which has a gorgeous view of the falls and waited for our driver to take us back to the airport. This is the only hotel within the Iguazú National Park grounds and no further construction is allowed. This is intended to keep the falls and views as pristine as they are now and prevent high rise resorts and hotels from taking over like they’ve done at Niagara Falls. 

This was a beautiful stop on our journey. We hope to be back someday and may even look at staying at the Gran Meliá and possibly at the Belmont Hotel on the Brazilian side of the falls.